Friday, September 16, 2016

A long weekend in Freetown: A Tourist's story worth telling✍🏿


A long weekend in Freetown


Freetown might seem an odd destination for a long weekend but it’s certainly doable, as our friend just proved.

I picked up our old housemate Tim – or Topsy Tim, as the Flump named him (her first CBeebies in-joke) – from the SeaCoach terminal at 6am on Friday.

He’d enjoyed a trouble-free overnight flight until the passport officer stamped him in and then asked for money for a drink. Being a kindly soul, and having nothing smaller, Topsy handed over a fiver (Sterling), enough to fund a decent night out.

We aimed to show Tim as much of what Sierra Leone had to offer as is possible inside four days.

So after a quick breakfast at our place, we took to the mountain road to give him a taste of life here from the comfort of the passenger seat.

The route climbs away from the city through early Krio villages, skirts the rainforest – edges eaten away by deforestation – before meeting the stunning coastline.

roadpic.jpg

All the gates, pillars and slabs you could wish for [Photo: T.Bowen]

En route, you pass Africa’s oldest stone church and the village of Grafton – famed for spring water – where hawkers line the road flogging it in bottles. Next comes Waterloo, a hive of activity where timber, plastics and concrete products are piled high in roadside yards.

As usual, I got stuck behind a stationary poda-poda while negotiating the chaotic street market and then enraged the massed shoppers, vendors, motorists and police alike with my clumsy overtaking.

The road follows part of the old railway, on which trains once chugged at 15mph along 365km of narrow gauge track spanning the breadth of the country. These days, the station platform signs greet the arrival of road traffic to Hastings and Waterloo.

asda2

My favourite sight on this journey is a petrol station faithfully painted in the livery of British supermarket Asda. (Note National Lottery and Wall’s ice cream boards) [Photo: T.Bowen]

We parked up at Kent beach, leaving the car in the care of willing minders, and caught the boat to our overnight stop at Banana Islands. About 20 minutes in to the half-hour journey, the little vessel’s outboard motor started making odd noises, causing the captain to begin taking apart the plastic engine housing.

As we bobbed aimlessly, some distance from land, it struck me that this was Topsy’s “Welcome to Africa” moment. He’d had it too easy until then.

There were a few other boats within frantic waving distance but we didn’t need rescuing. The skipper diagnosed an oil shortage and simply adopted a gently-does-it approach to the rest of the journey, depositing us on the little beach in front of Dalton’s Banana Guesthouse.

20160909_113633.jpg

“Engine trouble? I’m off.”

The three Banana Islands – named after their shape – make up an archipelago at the foot of the Western Peninsular. Fittingly for Tim, we were staying on the largest, Dublin (pron: Doo-blin), the namesake of his home county.

The island, a longstanding expat getaway, showed signs of decay. Gregory, the Greek owner of Daltons said Ebola had wiped out his staple market of young NGO workers seeking a budget base for beery weekends snorkelling or diving.

During the outbreak, demand changed. Emergency workers wanted luxury lodges and cocktails to de-stress. Now things are returning to normal, he says. However, a neighbouring high-end “glamping” establishment has gone bust, and the once highly-rated community-run bungalows lie empty and overgrown.

No doubt Greg’s friendly but frank attitude – that if you want luxury you should pay more elsewhere – creates a hostel-type atmosphere that I really enjoyed. “Don’t thank me now,” he’d say, “you don’t know what’s going to go wrong tomorrow.”

milli.jpg

Not much of a looker but this room-mate snored less than the missus

The bungalows housed comfortable mattresses on concrete slabs, although ongoing renovations meant dingy lighting and sharing a shower with huge and shadowy creepy-crawlies. The food – served together with other guests – was delicious: fresh yellowfin in garlic sauce with pasta, or blue-boned grouper grilled with bread.

The locals seemed chilled out; not so desperate to sell you stuff as on the mainland. This laid-back vibe was doubtless helped by the quantity of pungent marijuana being smoked on its shores.

Dublin offers a small glimpse of Sierra Leone’s history. A few wrought iron lamp-posts, left by 17th century Portuguese settlers, remain standing, while rusting cannons and a grand but overgrown graveyard are remnants of the Royal Navy’s anti-slavery mission a couple of centuries later.

In between, the island was used as a sort of holding camp for slaves captured on the mainland before they were shipped across the Atlantic. We’re told these country folk would have been so terrified of the sea that they’d board slave ships without a fight just to keep their feet dry.

An overgrown jungle path leads to the next island, Ricketts. But we were carrying a toddler where a machete was needed, so turned back to a lovely little beach known as Big Sands.

20160909_142516

17th Century lamp-post, foreground, with 21st Century equivalent at rear

This would have been the perfect castaway beach, had the weather not churned up such a lot of seaweed. Oh, and had it not featured a naked man talking on his phone.

Still, the water was perfect for swimming and – for once – the Flump’s enthusiasm for the sea was matched by our own.

After a little more than 24 hours of playful relaxation, with no shortage of boozing, we headed back to the mainland. We’d timed our beach visit well, as the weather turned on the way home.

Topsy and I sought sanctuary in one of our local bars, where things were warming up nicely as we arrived, including – sadly – our bottles of Guinness Foreign Extra.

To the uninitiated, this African-brewed version – popular, I supsect, due to previous dubious claims about “strength” tapping into the African psyche – weighs in at 7.5%. Tim declared Salone’s version to taste “nothing like” its more famous Nigerian cousin. To me it was like a bizarre treacle-vodka cocktail, though I didn’t let that deter me.

I was delighted when Thomas – our neighbour who I run with – joined us, meaning Tim got to enjoy some genuine no-strings craic with the locals. We also roped in Thomas to join Topsy’s 20-mile run the next morning.

P1030153.JPG

You can take the white boy out of Doo-blin…

His New York Marathon training plan* meant this was an immovable fixture on our itinerary. Rising at 6am after another boozy night proved a challenge but fortunately heavy rain woke me, meaning Tim and I hit the streets by half-past.

I’d mapped out a picturesque 10-mile route, intending to accompany Tim for one lap before leaving him to complete a solo second. Unfortunately, the stunning vistas were obscured by the weather and – in any case – we looked out for little other than our footing.

After five miles, Thomas joined us. I was grateful as, once we hit the wind-whipped beachfront, I was dropping off the pace. After seven miles, I lost sight of them.

After plodding wearily home, I showered and dashed back out to try to get a souvenir photo of Tim training in Africa.

By that stage, even poor Thomas was suffering. Topsy, meanwhile, ignored the rising temperatures to up the pace.

Running is a great way to take in a new place and he got to see one of the mass jogging groups, half shuffling-half dancing behind a van as it blared music, as well as the numerous impromptu beach football matches.

Salonean cuisine is a perfect recovery meal, so we headed out to try fish cooked in the traditional cassava leaf, groundnut and onion sauces before our next stop: Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary.

Just a few miles out of the capital, this rainforest retreat felt a world away from its bustle as we arrived for the 4pm tour. Of 21-55,000 of the western subspecies of these endangered apes in existence, some 5,500 are thought to live in Sierra Leone. More than half are outside protected areas, at the mercy of bushmeat hunters.

P1030112.JPG

“I’m not sure about that banana gag.” [Photo T.Bowen]

 Those at Tacugama – whose founder fought for protected status for the surrounding rainforest – are mostly rescued from captivity. Now they live in a range of accommodation. The sickest are treated in zoo-style cages, exercising in large pens, while others roam “semi-wild” in rainforest with tree-free border zones and wire fences marking their boundaries.

Though a little light on information, the tour showed off an impressive set-up and proved particularly memorable for everyone politely pretending not to notice one adult male’s state of high excitement at the commencement of feeding time.

This impromptu revelation of a surprisingly small banana by such a large mammal made us men walk a little taller.

Our beds for the night were in an “eco-lodge” high in the forest canopy. From its balcony, we stretched our legs, listened to the calls of myriad birds and watched a monkey scramble across the treetops.

On the way to dinner, an owl swooped over Tim’s head and we watched it perch for nearby. Whether it was an African wood owl or one of its rufous fishing relatives remains a matter for debate.

A morning tramp proved more successful in terms of identification, as we spotted an impressive red-bellied paradise flycatcher and a striking western black-headed oriole after drinking in the views from the falls below nearby Kongo Dam.

The walk left us filthy and sweaty on departure and we felt a bit rough dining at possibly Freetown’s classiest venue, the Country Lodge, which offers spectacular views over the city’s Western edges.

The hotel is surrounded by Krio wood shingle homes – built on steel stilts to keep them cooler – which housed the European administrators of the early colony of freed slaves.

Later, we saw less grand – but just as characterful – examples of this architecture as we took a walk downtown, where the colourful buildings appeared to lean on more modern neighbours for support.

arch.jpg

Modern, brutalist or traditional Afro-Jamaican? Take your pick. [Photo: T.Bowen]

The One With The Common Sense and I had yet to explore the area around the State House and the impressive Cotton Tree, under which much of Sierra Leone’s history has unfolded.

The usual weekday bustle can make this feel an intimidating place but we were pleasantly surprised at how relaxing we found our stroll on what was a bank holiday Monday, with the Flump gaining her usual army of admirers.

Unlike our West End neighbourhood, in this poorer district, there are no iron gates sealing people into compounds. Here, scenes of people gathering to eat, drink and chat amid the decaying grandeur are reminiscent of central Havana.

We decided to mark Tim’s last hours here with a final stroll along Lumley Beach, where limited parking provoked a marital dispute between weary driver and as-yet-unlicensed wife conducting proceedings from the back seat. Thankfully, old housemate Tim had enough experience of our volatility to let it wash over him until we parked up for a better-tempered stroll.

More by luck than planning, his visit coincided with Eid celebrations so the beachfront atmosphere was even headier than usual.

The promenade was packed with revellers, many enjoying drinks from carboot coolboxes, while we even spotted a “street food” van of the sort you’d find in London’s trendier nightspots.

Plenty of kids were still up, meaning a double-shift for the man who walks around all day selling squeaky inflatables, so it felt like an occasion for everyone to enjoy.

After a quick beer, it was home for Tim to enjoy one last quintessential West African experience: jollof rice. This sweet, stodgy and lightly spiced rice dish is the source of much friendly banter across the region about who makes the original/best. Sadly, I’d wager the one we had wouldn’t win that argument.

At midnight – just 90 hours after picking him up – I deposited Topsy with a manhug or two back at the SeaCoach station.

It had been a whistlestop tour and I was pretty shattered. So, when overtaking a taxi, I noticed too late that it had stopped at a police checkpoint, rather than to collect passengers.

Cue noisy accusations of “driving badly” and my now stock response of going on the offensive while keeping my banknotes buried in my pockets. I feared this time I might not get away with it.

However, after some discussion about exactly what offence I was alleged to have committed, a senior officer told me it was a holiday, a happy day, and that I should head home.

I did, relieved to let my head hit the pillow.

It had indeed been a long weekend – but a great one with it.

* I should explain that it was me who introduced Topsy to running with the gentle assurance that he “wouldn’t finish last” at parkrun. Not only did the swine beat me but he’s since gone on to numerous podium positions and a sub-2:40 marathon. The fecker.


https://expatfamilyfortunes.com/2016/09/15/a-long-weekend-in-freetown/#more-3049

Thursday, September 15, 2016

ANOTHER BREXIT (IMMIGRATION) EFFECT??- PASSPORT CHECKS!!!


~BE AWARE ~
COMMUNITY NEWS
Wed 14 Sept 2016





After Jamaica 50 deportations, the Department of Education is asking all children in schools in England to bring their passports and birth certificates to prove their nationality and country of birth.

Some schools in Hackney has already been doing this in July but it is supposed to start from September.

The Government's reason for this is to investigate "education tourism". See here: http://schoolsweek.co.uk/schools-must-collect-data-on-immigrant-children-from-autumn/

This information is being sent to Department of Education on *6th October* and schools have to check on nationality status *every term*. Parents can before this date declare that they want to opt-out and refuse to give this information to schools. If already have given this information then before this date, they can instruct schools not send this information to Central government. As this will end up in the hands of Immigration Enforcement. A template lettet to send to your child's school or nursery is here: schoolsabc.net/resources.

We need to get the message out to all black parent groups that this collection of nationality data is *optional*. Schools cannot force parents to identify their nationality or their children's nationality/immigration status.

Schools are not telling parents of their rights and some have reported that they felt they had to bring in their passports.

Tuesday, August 02, 2016

BISHOP ADJAYI CROWTHER: IN HIS OWN WORDS.

  Ajayi Crowther’s 179-year old letter: My capture into slavery and rescue

Bishop Ajayi Crowther

Bishop Ajayi Crowther

{COURTESY: THE NEWS NIGERIA.COM. 25 June 2016}

Ajayi Crowther was ordained as the first African bishop of the Anglican Church. However, his background was rough. He was 12 years old when he was captured, along with his mother and toddler brother and other family members, along with his entire village, by Muslim Fulani slave raiders in 1821 and sold to Portuguese slave traders. 

In his 1837 letter to Rev. Williams Jowett, then Secretary of the Church Missionary Society, Crowther narrated his capture into slaver and rescue

By Samuel Ajayi Crowther

Letter of Mr. Samuel Crowther to the Rev. Williams Jowett, in 1837, then Secretary of the Church Missionary Society, detailing the circumstances connected with his being sold as a slave. Fourah Bay, Feb. 22, 1837

Rev. and dear Sir,

As I think it will be interesting to you to know something of the conduct of Providence in my being brought to this Colony, where I have the happiness to enjoy the privilege of the Gospel, I give you a short account of it, hoping I may be excused if I should prove rather tedious in some particulars.

I suppose sometimes about the commencement of the year 1821, I was in my native country, enjoying the comforts of father and mother, and affectionate love of brothers and sisters. From this period I must date the unhappy, but which I am now taught, in other respects, to call blessed day, which I shall never forget in my life. 

I call it unhappy day, because it was the day in which I was violently turned out of my father’s house, and separated from relations; and I which I was made to experience what is called to be in slavery – with regard to its being called blessed, it being the day which Providence had marked out for me to set out on my journey from the land of heathenism, superstition, and vice, to a place where His Gospel is preached.


For some years, war had been carried on in my Eyo (Oyo) country, which was always attended with much devastation and bloodshed; the women, such men as had surrendered or were caught, with the children, were taken captives. The enemies who carried on these war were principally the Oyo Mahomendans, with whom my country abounds- with the Foulahs (Fulbe), and such foreign slaves as had escaped from their owners. Joined together, making a formidable force of about 20,000, who annoyed the whole country. They had no other employment but selling slaves to the Spaniards and Portuguese on the coast. 

The morning in which my town, Ocho-gu (Osogun), shared the same fate which many others had experienced, was fair and delightful; and most of the inhabitants were engaged in their respective occupations. We were preparing breakfast without any apprehension; when, about 9 o’clock a.m. a rumour was spread in the town that the enemies had approached with intentions of hostility. It was not long after when they had almost surrounded the town, to prevent any escape of the inhabitants; the town being rudely fortified with a wooded fence, about four miles in circumference, containing about 12,000 inhabitants, which would produce 3,000 fighting men. The inhabitants not being duly prepared, some not being at home; those who were, having about six gates to defend, as well as many weak places about the fence to guard against, and, to say in a few words, the men being surprised, and therefore confounded – the enemies entered the town after about three or four hours’ resistance. 

Here a most sorrowful scene imaginable was to be witnessed! – women, some with three, four, six children clinging to their arms, with the infant on their backs, and such baggage as they could carry on their heads, running as far as they could through prickly shrubs, which, hooking their blies and other loads, drew them down from the heads of the bearers. While they found impossible to go along with their loads, they endeavoured only to save themselves and their children: even this was impracticable with those who had many children to care for. 

While they were endeavouring to disentangle themselves from the ropy shrubs, they were overtaken and caught by the enemies with a noose of rope thrown over the neck of every individual, to be led in the manner of goats tied together, under the drove of one man. In many cases a family was violently divided between three or four enemies , who each led his away, to see one another no more. 

Your humble servant was thus caught-with his mother, two sisters (one an infant about ten months old), and a cousin – while endeavouring to escape in the manner above described. My load consisted in nothing else than my bow, and five arrows in the quiver, the bow I had lost in the shrub, while I was extricating myself, before I could think of making any use of it against my enemies. The last view I had of my father was when he came from the fight, to give us the signal to flee: he entered into our house which was burnt some time back for some offence given by my father’s adopted son. Hence I never saw him more-Here I must take thy leave, unhappy, comfortless father! – I learned, some time afterward, that he was killed in another battle.

Professor Ade Ajayi's book on Crowther, source of this letter

Professor Ade Ajayi’s book on Crowther, source of this letter

Our conquerors were Oyo Mahomendans, who led us away through the town. On our way, we met a man badly wounded on the head struggling between life and death. Before we got half-way through the town, some Foulahs (Fulbe), among the enemies themselves, hostilely separated my cousin from our number, here also I must take thy leave, my fellow captive cousin! His mother was living in another village. The town on fire – the houses being built with mud, some about twelve feet from the ground with high roofs, in square forms, of different dimensions and spacious areas; several of these belonged to one man, adjoined to, with passage communicating with each other. The flame was very high. 

We were led by my grandfather’s house, already desolate; and in a few minutes after, we left the town to the mercy of the flame, never to enter or see it any more. Farewell, a place of my birth, the playground of my childhood, and the place which I thought would be the repository of my mortal body in its old age. 

We were now out of Osogun, going into a town called Isehin (Iseyin), the rendezvours of the enemies, about twenty miles from my town. On the way we saw our grandmother at a distance, with about three or four of my cousins taken with her, for a few minutes: she was missed through the crowd to see her no more. Several other captives were held in the same manner as we we were: grandmothers, mothers, children, and cousins were all led captives. O sorrowful prospect! The aged women were to be greatly pitied, not being able to walk so fast as their children and grandchildren; they were often threatened with being put to death upon the spot, to get rid of them, if they would not go fast as others, and they often as wicked in their practice as in their words. O pitiful sight! Whose heart would not bleed to have seen this? Yes, such is the state of barbarity in the heathen land. Evening came on; and coming to a spring of water we drank a great quantity; which served us for breakfast, with a little parched corn and dried meat previously prepared by our victors for themselves.

During our march to Iseyin, we passed several towns and villages which had been reduced to ashes. It was almost midnight before we reached town, which we passed our doleful first night in bondage. It was not perhaps a mile from the wall of Iseyin when an old woman of about sixty was threatened in the manner above described. What had become of her I could not learn.

On the next morning, our cords being taken off our necks, we were brought to the Chief of our captors – for there were many other Chiefs– as trophies at his feet. In a little while, a separation took place, when my sister and I fell to the share of the Chief, and my mother and the infant top the victors. We dared not vent our grief by loud cries, but by very heavy sobs. My mother, with the infant, was led away, comforted with the promise that she should see us again, when we should leave Iseyin for Dah’dah (Dada),- the town of the Chief. 

In a few hours after, it was soon agreed upon that I should be bartered for a horse in Iseyin, that very day. Thus was how I separated from my mother and sister for the first time in my life’ and the latter not to be seen more in this world. Thus, in the space of twenty-four hours, being deprived of liberty and all other comforts I was made the property of three different persons. About the space of two months, when the chief was to leave Iseyin for his own town, the horse which was then only taken on trial, not being approved of, I was restored to the chief, who took me to Dada where I had the happiness to meet my mother and infant sister again with joy, which could be described by nothing else but with tears of love and affection; and on the part of my infant sister, with leaps of joy in every manner possible.

Here, I lived for about three months, going for grass for horses with my fellow captives. I now and then visited my mother and sister in our captor’s house, without any fears or thoughts of being separated any more. My mother told me that she had heard of my sister, but I never saw her any more.

At last, an unhappy evening arrived, when I was sent with a man to get some money at a neighbouring house. I went; but with some fears, for which I could not account; and, to my great astonishment, in a few minutes I was added to the number of many other captives, unfettered, to be led to the market-town early the next morning. My sleep went from me; I spent almost the whole night in thinking of my doleful situation, with tears and sobs, especially as my mother was in the same town, whom I had not visited for a day or two. There was another boy in the same situation with me: his mother was in Dada. 

Being sleepless, I heard the first cock-crow. Scarcely the signal was given, when the traders rose, and loaded the men slaves with baggage. With one hand chained to the neck, we left the town. My little companion in affliction cried and begged much to be permitted to see his mother, but was soon silenced by punishment. Seeing this, I dared not speak, although I thought we passed by the very house my mother was in. Thus was I separated from my mother and sister, my then only comforts, to meet more in this world of misery.

After a few days of travel, we came to the market-town, I-jah’I (Ijaye). Here I saw many who had escaped in our town to this place; or those who were in search of their relations, to set at liberty as many as they had means of redeeming. Here were under very close inspection, as there were many persons in search of their relations; and through that, many had escaped from their owners. In a few days I was sold to a Mahomendan woman, with whom I travelled to many towns on our way to Popo country, on the coast much resorted to by the Portuguese, to buy slaves.

When we left Ijaye, after many halts, we came to a town called To-Ko (Itoko). From Ijaye to Itoko all spoke the Ebwah (Egba) dialet, but my mistress spoke Oyo, my own dialect. Here I was a perfect stranger, having left the Oyo country far behind. I lived in Itoko about three months; walked about with my owner’s son with some degree of freedom, it being a place where my feet had never trod: and could I possibly have made my way out through many a ruinous town and village we had passed, I should have soon become a prey to some others, who would have gladly taken the advantage of me. Besides, I could not think of going a mile out of the town alone at night, as there were many enormous devil –houses along the highway; and a woman had been lately publicly executed (fired at), being accused of bewitching her husband, who died of a long tedious sickness. Five or six heads, of such persons as were nailed on the large trees in the market-places, to terrify others.

Now and then my mistress would speak with me and her son, that we should by- and bye go to Popo country, where we should buy tobacco, and other fine things, to sell at our return. Now, thought I, this was the signal of my being sold to the Portuguese; who, they often told me during our journey, were to be seen in that country. Being very thoughtful of this, my appetite forsook me, and in a few weeks I got the dysentery, which greatly preyed on me. I determined with myself that I would not go to Popo country; but would make an end of myself, one way or the other. In several nights, I attempted strangling myself, one with my band’ but had no courage enough to close the noose tight, so as to effect my purpose. May the Lord forgive me this sin! I determined, next, that I would leap out of the canoe into the river, when we should cross it in our way to that country. Thus was I thinking, when my owner, perceived the great alternation which took place in me, sold me to some persons. 

Professor Ade Ajayi's book on Crowther, source of this letter

Professor Ade Ajayi’s book on Crowther, source of this letter

Thus the Lord, while I knew Him not, led me not into temptation and delivered me from evil. After my price had been counted before my own eyes, I was delivered up to my new owners, with great grief and dejection of spirit, not knowing where I was now to be led. About the first cock-crowing, which was the usual time to set out with the slaves, to prevent their being much acquainted with the way, for fear an escape should be made, we set out for Jabbo (Ijebu), third dialect from mine.

During our march to Iseyin, we passed several towns and villages which had been reduced to ashes. It was almost midnight before we reached town, which we passed our doleful first night in bondage. It was not perhaps a mile from the wall of Iseyin when an old woman of about sixty was threatened in the manner above described. What had become of her I could not learn.

On the next morning, our cords being taken off our necks, we were brought to the Chief of our captors – for there were many other Chiefs– as trophies at his feet. In a little while, a separation took place, when my sister and I fell to the share of the Chief, and my mother and the infant top the victors. We dared not vent our grief by loud cries, but by very heavy sobs. My mother, with the infant, was led away, comforted with the promise that she should see us again, when we should leave Iseyin for Dah’dah (Dada),- the town of the Chief. 

In a few hours after, it was soon agreed upon that I should be bartered for a horse in Iseyin, that very day. Thus was how I separated from my mother and sister for the first time in my life’ and the latter not to be seen more in this world. Thus, in the space of twenty-four hours, being deprived of liberty and all other comforts I was made the property of three different persons. About the space of two months, when the chief was to leave Iseyin for his own town, the horse which was then only taken on trial, not being approved of, I was restored to the chief, who took me to Dada where I had the happiness to meet my mother and infant sister again with joy, which could be described by nothing else but with tears of love and affection; and on the part of my infant sister, with leaps of joy in every manner possible.

Here, I lived for about three months, going for grass for horses with my fellow captives. I now and then visited my mother and sister in our captor’s house, without any fears or thoughts of being separated any more. My mother told me that she had heard of my sister, but I never saw her any more.

At last, an unhappy evening arrived, when I was sent with a man to get some money at a neighbouring house. I went; but with some fears, for which I could not account; and, to my great astonishment, in a few minutes I was added to the number of many other captives, unfettered, to be led to the market-town early the next morning. My sleep went from me; I spent almost the whole night in thinking of my doleful situation, with tears and sobs, especially as my mother was in the same town, whom I had not visited for a day or two. There was another boy in the same situation with me: his mother was in Dada. 

Being sleepless, I heard the first cock-crow. Scarcely the signal was given, when the traders rose, and loaded the men slaves with baggage. With one hand chained to the neck, we left the town. My little companion in affliction cried and begged much to be permitted to see his mother, but was soon silenced by punishment. Seeing this, I dared not speak, although I thought we passed by the very house my mother was in. Thus was I separated from my mother and sister, my then only comforts, to meet more in this world of misery.

After a few days of travel, we came to the market-town, I-jah’I (Ijaye). Here I saw many who had escaped in our town to this place; or those who were in search of their relations, to set at liberty as many as they had means of redeeming. Here were under very close inspection, as there were many persons in search of their relations; and through that, many had escaped from their owners. In a few days I was sold to a Mahomendan woman, with whom I travelled to many towns on our way to Popo country, on the coast much resorted to by the Portuguese, to buy slaves.

When we left Ijaye, after many halts, we came to a town called To-Ko (Itoko). From Ijaye to Itoko all spoke the Ebwah (Egba) dialet, but my mistress spoke Oyo, my own dialect. Here I was a perfect stranger, having left the Oyo country far behind. I lived in Itoko about three months; walked about with my owner’s son with some degree of freedom, it being a place where my feet had never trod: and could I possibly have made my way out through many a ruinous town and village we had passed, I should have soon become a prey to some others, who would have gladly taken the advantage of me. Besides, I could not think of going a mile out of the town alone at night, as there were many enormous devil –houses along the highway; and a woman had been lately publicly executed (fired at), being accused of bewitching her husband, who died of a long tedious sickness. Five or six heads, of such persons as were nailed on the large trees in the market-places, to terrify others.

Now and then my mistress would speak with me and her son, that we should by- and bye go to Popo country, where we should buy tobacco, and other fine things, to sell at our return. Now, thought I, this was the signal of my being sold to the Portuguese; who, they often told me during our journey, were to be seen in that country. Being very thoughtful of this, my appetite forsook me, and in a few weeks I got the dysentery, which greatly preyed on me. I determined with myself that I would not go to Popo country; but would make an end of myself, one way or the other. In several nights, I attempted strangling myself, one with my band’ but had no courage enough to close the noose tight, so as to effect my purpose. May the Lord forgive me this sin! I determined, next, that I would leap out of the canoe into the river, when we should cross it in our way to that country. Thus was I thinking, when my owner, perceived the great alternation which took place in me, sold me to some persons. 

Professor Ade Ajayi's book on Crowther, source of this letter

Professor Ade Ajayi’s book on Crowther, source of this letter

Thus the Lord, while I knew Him not, led me not into temptation and delivered me from evil. After my price had been counted before my own eyes, I was delivered up to my new owners, with great grief and dejection of spirit, not knowing where I was now to be led. About the first cock-crowing, which was the usual time to set out with the slaves, to prevent their being much acquainted with the way, for fear an escape should be made, we set out for Jabbo (Ijebu), third dialect from mine.



Bishop Ajayi Crowther






After having arrived at Ik-ke-ku Ye-re (Ikereku-iwere), another town, we halted. In this place I renewed my attempt of strangling, several times at night; but could not effect my purpose. It was very singular, that no thought of making use of knife ever entered my mind. However, it was not long before I was bartered for tobacco, rum and other articles. I remained here, in fetters, alone, for some time, before my owner could get as many slaves as he wanted. He feigned to treat us more civilly, by allowing us to sip a few drops of White Man’s liquor, rum; which was so estimable an article, that none but Chiefs could pay for a jar or glass vessel of four or five gallons: so much dreaded it was, that no one should take breath before he swallowed every sip, for fear of having the string of throat cut by the spirit of the liquor. This made it so much more valuable.

I had to remain alone, again, in another town in Jabbo, the name of which I do not now remember for about two months. From hence, I was brought, after a few days’ walk to a slave-market, called I-ko-sy (Ikosi), on the coast, on the bank of a large river, which probably was the Lagoon on which we were afterwards captured.

The sight of the river terrified me exceedingly, for I had never seen anything like it in my life. The people on the opposite bank are called E’ko. Before sun set being battered again for tobacco, I became another owner’s. Nothing now terrified me more than the river, and the thought of going into another world. Crying was nothing now, to vent out my sorrow; my whole body became stiff. I was now bade to enter the river, to ford it to the canoe. Being fearful at my entering this extensive water, and being so cautious in every step I took, as if the next would bring me to the bottom, my motion was very awkward indeed. Night coming on canoe, and the men having very little time to spare, soon carried me into the canoe, and placed me among the corn-bags, and supplied me with an Ab-alah (abala) for my dinner. 

Almost in the same position I was placed I remained, with my abala in my hand quite confused in my thoughts, waiting only every moment our arrival at the new world” which we did not reach till about 4 o’clock in the morning. Here I got once more into another dialect, the fourth from mine; if I may not call it altogether another language, on account of now, in some words, and then there being a faint shadow of my own. Here I must remark that during the whole night’s voyage in the canoe, not a single thought of leaping into the river had entered my mind, but, on the contrary, the fear of the river occupied my thought.

Having now entered E’ko (Lagos), I was permitted to go any way I pleased; there being no way of escape, on the account of the river. In this place I met my two nephews, belonging to two different masters. One part of the town was occupied by the Portuguese and Spaniards, who had come to buy slaves. 

Although I was in Lagos more than three months, I never once saw a White Man; until one evening, when they took a walk, in company of about six, and came to the street of the house in which I was livivng. Even then I had not the boldness to appear distinctly to look at them, being always suspicious that they had come for me: and my suspicion was not a fanciful one, for, in a few days after, I was made the eight in number of the slaves of the Portuguese. 

Being a veteran in slavery, if I may be allowed the expression, and having no more hope for ever going to my country again, I patiently took whatever came. It was not without a great fear and trembling though that I received, for the first time the touch of a white man, who examined me whether I was sound or not. Men and boys were at first chained together, with a chain of about six fathoms in length, thrust through an iron fetter on neck of every individuals, and fastened at both ends with padlocks. In this situation the boys suffered the most: the men sometimes, getting angry, would draw the chain so violently, as seldom went without bruises on their poor little necks; especially the time of sleep, when they drew the chain so close to ease themselves of its weight, in order to be able to lie more conveniently, that we were almost suffocated, or bruised to death, in a room with one door, which was fastened as soon as we entered in, with no other passage for communicating the air than the opening under the eavesdrop. 

Very often at night, when two or three individuals quarrelled or fought, the whole drove suffered punishment, without any distinction. At last, we boys had the happiness to be separated from the men, when their number was increased and more chain to spare: we were corded together, by ourselves. Thus, we were going in and out, bathing together, and so on. The female sex fared not much better. Thus we were for nearly the space of four months.

About this time, intelligence was given that the English were cruising the coast. This was another subject of sorrow with us – that there must be war also on the sea as well as on land – a thing never heard of before, or imagined practicable. This delayed our embarkation. In the meanwhile, the other slaves which were collected in Popo and were intended to be conveyed into the vessel the nearest way from that place, were brought into Lagos, among us. Among this number was Joseph Bartholomew, my Brother in the service of the Church Missionary Society.

After a week’s delay we embarked, at night in canoe, from Lagos to the beach; and on the following morning were put on board the vessel, which immediately sailed away. The crew being busy embarking us, 187 in number, had no time to give us either breakfast or supper; and we being unaccustomed to the motion of the vessel, endured the whole of this day in sea-sickness, which rendered the greater part of us less fit to take any food whatever. 

In the very same evening, we were suprised by two English men-of-war, and on the next morning found ourselves in the hands of new conquerrors, who we at very much dreaded, they being armed with long swords. In the morning, being called up from the hold, we were astonished to find ourselves among two very large men-of-war and several other brigs. The men-of-war were, His Majesty’s ships Mymidon, Captain J.H Leeke, and Iphigenia, Captain Sir Robert Mends, who captured us on the 7th of April 1822, on the river Lagos.

Our owner was bound with his sailors; except the cook, who was preparing our breakfast. Hunger rendered us bold; and not being threatened at first attempts to get some fruits from the stern, we in a short time took the liberty of ranging about the vessel, in search of plunder of every kind. Now we began to entertain a good opinion of our conquerors. Very soon after breakfast, we were divided into several of the vessels around us. This was now cause of new fears, not knowing whether our missery would end. Being now, as it were, one family, we began to take leave of those who were first transshipped, not knowing what would become of them and ourselves. 

About this time, six of us, friends in affliction, among whom was my brother Joseph Bartholomew, kept very close together, that we might be carried away at the same time. It was not long before we six were conveyed into the Mymidon, in which we discovered not any trace of those who were transshipped before us. We soon came to a conclusion of what had become of them, when we saw parts of a hog hanging, the skin of which was white – a thing we never saw before; for a hog was always roasted on fire, to clear it of the hair, in my country; and a number of cannon shots were arranged along the deck. But we were soon undeceived, by a close examination of the flesh with cloven foot, which resembled that of a hog; and, by a cautious approach to the shot, that they were iron.

In a few days we were quite at home in the man-of-war; being only six in number, we were selected by the sailors, for their boys; and were soon furnished with clothes. Our Portuguese owner and his son were brought over into the same vessel, bound in fetters; and thinking that I should no more get into his hand, I had the boldness to strike him on the head, while he was shaving by his son – an act, however, very wicked and unkind in its nature. His vessel was towed along by the man-of-war, with the remainder of the slaves therein. But after a few weeks, the slaves being transshipped from her, and being stripped of her rigging, the schooner was left alone on the ocean – “Destroyed at sea by captors being found unseaworthy, in consequence of being a dull sailer”.

One of the brigs, which contained a part of the slaves, was wrecked on a sand-bank: happily, another vessel was near, and all the lives were saved. It was not long before another brig sunk, during a tempest, with all the slaves and sailors, with the exception of about five of the latter, who were found in a boat after four or five days, reduced almost to skeletons, and were so feeble, that they could not stand on their feet. One hundered and two of our number were lost on this occasion.

After nearly two months and a half cruising on the coast, we were landed in Sierra Leone, on the 17th of June 1822. The same day we were sent to Bathurst, formerly Leopold, under the care of Mr (Thomas) Davey. Here we had the pleasure of meeting many of our country people, but none were known before. They assured us of our liberty and freedom; and we very soon believed them. But a few days after our arrival at Bathurst, we had the mortification of being sent to Freetown, to testify against our Portuguese owner. It being hinted to us that we should be delivered up to him again, notwithstanding all the persuation of Mr. Davey that we should return, we entirely refused to go ourselves unless we were carried. I could not but think of my ill-conduct to our owner in the man-of-war But as time was passing away, and our consent could not be got, we were compelled to go by being whipped; and it was not a smalle joy to us to return to Bathurst again, in the evening, to our friends.

From the period I have been under the care of the Church Missionary Society, and in about six months after my arrival at Sierra Leone, I was able to read the New Testament with some degree of freedom; and was made a monitor, for which I was rewarded with seven pence-half penny per month. The Lord was pleased to open my heart to harken to those things which were spoken by His servants, and being convinced that I was a sinner, and desired to obtain pardon through Jesus Christ, I was baptised on the 11th of December 1825, by Rev. J. Raban. I had the short privilege of visiting your happy and favoured land in the year 1826. It was my desire to remain for a good while, to be qualified as a Teacher to my fellow-creatures, but Providence odered it so, that, at my return, I had the wished-for instruction under the tuition of Rev. C.L.F Haensel who landed in Sierra Leone in 1827,through whose instrumentality I have been qualified so far, as to be able to render some help in the service of the Church Missionary Society, to my fellow-creatures. May I ever have a fresh desire to be engaged in the service of Christ, for it is perfect freedom!

Thus much I think necessary to acquaint you to the kindness of Providence concerning me. Thus the day of my captivity was to me a blessed day, when considered in this respect; though certainly it must be unhappy also, in my being deprived on it of my father, mother, sister and all other relations. I must also remark, that I could not as yet find a dozen Osogun people among the inhabitants of Sierra Leone.

I was married to a Christian woman on the 21st of September 1829. She was captured by His Majesty’s ship Bann, Captain Charles Phillips, on the 31st October 1822. Since, the Lord had blessed us with three children – a son, and two daughters.

That the time may come when the Heathen shall be fully given to Christ for His inheritance, and the uttermost part of the earth for His possession, is the earnest prayer of your humble, thankful, and obedient servant.

Samuel Crowther

Source: A Patriot to The Core. Bishop Ajayi Crowther by Professor J. F. Ade-Ajayi


:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

Comments:

Slavery is bad and wickedness but Christianity is worst because it blind people from seeing the root of problem and the truth.

  • On this historic letter, crowder has carefully refused to use the word that may indicates how Christians are involve in the process of slave trade and vehemently mentioned Muslims again and again.
    See my observations:
    Ajayi Crowther, the first African bishop of the Anglican Church had a rough background.
    1. He was 12 years old when he was captured, along with his mother and toddler brother and other family members, along with his entire village, by Muslim Fulani slave raiders in 1821 and sold to Portuguese slave traders.
    Remark: (Read the sentence carefully: MUSLIM Fulani Slave raiders sold to ........Portuguese slave traders, why not used the word .......sold to CHRISTIAN Portugues slave traders ?).
    In his 1837 letter to Rev. Williams Jowett, then Secretary of the Church Missionary Society, Crowther narrated his capture into slavery and rescue.
    Another part of the letter reads:
    2. For some years, war had been carried on in my Eyo (Oyo) country, which was always attended with much devastation and bloodshed; the women, such men as had surrendered or were caught, with the children, were taken captives. The enemies who carried on these war were principally the Oyo MOHOMENDANS (Muslims), with whom my country abounds- with the Foulahs (Fulbe), and such foreign slaves as had escaped from their owners. Joined together, making a formidable force of about 20,000, who annoyed the whole country. They had no other employment but selling slaves to the Spaniards and Portuguese on the coast. 
    Remark:
    It suppose to read .....they had no other employment but selling slaves to the CHRISTIANS" spaniards and Portugues.
    Hiding of this simple truth have made many Christians to hate Muslims and blindly submits themselves back to the same slavery to Spaniards and Portugues today. They went through desert and attempt to cross the sea to reach the coast of Spain in a bid to reach those historic slave masters. At the end the history teaches nothing important to learn which is avoidance of becoming slaves. Because the true direction of the value of this historic fact is distorted,still Africans remain slaves at their hands.
    If Ajayi has mentioned and attached the word "..Christians" to the spaniards and Portugues, it will have help the Africans not to trust the Arabs as well as the Christians that may disguise yo enslave us in whatever name !
    Africans would have become suspicious on all foreigners coming to deceive us ! African would not have submits themselves again to the children of those that enslave Crowder in 20th century !
    Africans would not have risk their lives just to reach where they will be enslaved !!!!!!!

      see more
      • Avatar

        You must be a very pathetic and blind-folded muslim. You see these men as we see them till today (Boko Haram, ISIS, Al-Shabbab,etc) shouting Allahu akbar in their conquest, glorifying the deity Allah, and it beats my imagination when i see blinded muslims like you, still living in denial, that they are not fighting the course of Allah. That someone bears Clifford, Richard, Clinton, etc does it qualify him or her to be a christian? The answer is no. Oooooo so, the slave raiders that were capturing slaves are muslim fulanis? No wonder, we have more muslims amongst the yorubas, than the Ibos.

          • Avatar

            You are acting like the blind-folded man now. Nothing blinds a man more than sentiments. The world would be a very nice place if we could just see things they way they are instead of taking offence to truth or historical accuracy.
            Don't let anyone get under your skin. The world is full of people with many different opinions, some you would agree with, some you wouldn't. The secret of living happily in this very diverse world, is to ignore annoyance.

              • Avatar

                Tell me the difference between pagans, atheists and christians in attitude, just one difference in work not fake faith.

              • Avatar

                AMAZING EXPERIENCE. But slavery is a wicked act agInst humanity and should not be repeated.



                Samuel Ajayi Crowther1807—December 31, 1891

                http://slaveryandremembrance.org/people/person/?id=PP010 -----------------------------------

                Samuel Adjayi CROWTHER:

                Church of England issues formal apology